Tonight's Moon

Tim

Tim

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From about 10 minutes ago...

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yes John the 200-500

Jeff shoot in manual. I use ISO 100 and 100 at F11. ; I vary that depending on how much light is hitting the moon. Remember you are shooting sunlight reflected off the moon. I use the timer to avoid camera shake and you can always bracket too. also it is best to shoot with a partial moon as the shadow adds detail whereas a full moon is rather boring and lacks a lot detail in the craters
 
Yeah I have tried that, and I always get a white circle or semi-circle in the image. ; The moon is always blown out in my shots.
 
Are you using spot metering directly off the moon, Howie? ; Any exposure compensation in play? ; Not sure if the weather is going to cooperate the next couple of nights but thought I'd give this a try.
 
Jeff if it is a white ball then you are overexposing it. try stopping down and like I said bracket a few shots. I am by no means an expert on this but that is what works ; for me. I used to get the white ball also till I read about using manual
 
I just went full zoom and Av and let the camera do the rest. ; You can also try sunny 16 since the moon is reflected sunlight. ; (1/ISO) at f/16 then adjust accordingly.

(from my htc incredible)
 
Honestly it's pretty simple if you have enough zoom to make the moon large enough to cover the central metering area - switch to spot metering, it should perfectly meter the moon whether you're in P, A, or S mode, use the lowest ISO, lock exposure on the moon if you want to recompose at all, and shoot. ; Tripods and a timer are best, but it can be done handheld too if you are well steady. ; I shoot the moon a lot, and always have switched to spot meter for a quick and easy shot.
 
"zackiedawg" said:
Honestly it's pretty simple if you have enough zoom to make the moon large enough to cover the central metering area - switch to spot metering, it should perfectly meter the moon whether you're in P, A, or S mode, use the lowest ISO, lock exposure on the moon if you want to recompose at all, and shoot. ; Tripods and a timer are best, but it can be done handheld too if you are well steady. ; I shoot the moon a lot, and always have switched to spot meter for a quick and easy shot.
Click to expand...

This is what I was figuring to do. ; It is very similar when photographing a stage show when the characters are the only thing lit while the rest of the stage has dimmer (if not no) lighting.
 
Bingo. ; Same idea. ; You've essentially got a little pool of daylight in a dark surrounding. ; Unless your spot meter is too big to completely reside inside the moon's circle (also dependent on how much focal length you've got), it is actually fairly easy for a camera to meter and shoot. ; With a 500mm lens on a crop body, it's no problem at all to fill the spot meter. ; On full frame, it might get challenging below 400mm to fill the center metering spot. ; I've got big moon shots from 4 different cameras, ranging from 375mm equiv to 750mm equiv, and spot meter has worked every time.
 
The only lens I got is the 80-400VR. ; No crop with the FX body but I should be able to crop some later. ; The trick is finding a place with neat horizon features as the moon comes up. Haven't located anything great with the Light Trac app I am using. ; Man, I wish I was on the east coast tonight!
 
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