Discussion in 'Non Disney Photos / Mobile Phone Photos' started by ddindy, Sep 13, 2017.
Sorry for the delay. I'm having a little trouble linking to Flickr videos. Stay tuned!
Trip report part 6
Things Get Hot!
We're up to Friday, August 25, 2017. We had booked an early-morning lava hike with Epic Lava. That meant getting up at 2 am and driving for an hour to the town of Kea'au where we were to meet our guide at 4 am. On the way, we passed near Kilauea where the red glow from Halema'uma'u crater was clearly visible. I wanted to stop for a photo, but decided it would be better to wait until later in the trip.
Our guide, Yvonne Baur, met us at the designated location. Yvonne is originally from Germany and spent many years in Utah before moving to Hawai'i. She's also quite a good photographer. (More on that in part 8.) We were the only people on the morning tour, which meant we would get all of the attention. We followed Yvonne on the 30-minute drive to Kalapana, where the public road ends and the emergency access road begins. Kalapana was covered by lava in 1990. In the wake of that, there is a parking area and many temporary bicycle rental businesses (for people who don't want to hike to the end of the access road). As we neared the town, we could see what looked like street lights on top of a hill. But those weren't street lights. What we were seeing was lava pouring over the edge of Pulama pali. (Pali is the Hawai'ian word for a steep slope or cliff.) I took that as a good sign.
We parked our car in the Kalapana parking area (really just a wide spot in the road) and transferred to Yvonne's car to drive another mile up the road. The tour company pays a homeowner a small fee to park at the end of their driveway, a much-appreciated saving of two miles of hiking.
The tour company provides all hikers with a small backpack with water, snacks, gloves, a rain poncho and a flashlight. The gloves were for protection in case of a fall in the lava field. Lava can be sharp, thanks to a high silica content, so a fall could be mean a painful hike back. On this day I made a few slips, but fortunately no falls.
We started the hike around 5 am. Why hike in the morning? The lava field is basically a black surface. Imagine an asphalt parking lot on a sunny day. Would you rather walk on that in the morning, before the sun heats it up, or in the afternoon, after it has been baking in the sun all day? That's why a morning hike is better. Plus, if you do it soon after arriving in Hawai'i, your body hasn't had a chance to shift to Hawai'ian time. In the summer, Hawai'i is six hours behind Eastern time. (It's only five hours different in the winter, since Hawai'i does not observe Daylight Saving Time.) I kept telling myself that even though it's 5 am in Hawai'i, it's 11 am back home. It didn't help.
Enough trivia. We hiked two miles along the gravel access road in the dark. For the first half mile, we were instructed to stay quiet, as we were passing several houses and we didn't want to disturb the residents. On the return hike, in daylight, we saw that the "houses" were several very small (one might even say tiny) buildings sitting on the lava. Not anything like what I had imagined in the dark. It's probably the perfect place for someone who wants to get away from it all.
Along the way we passed a couple of locked gates that prevent people from driving down the road. Hikers and bicycles are free to pass. The second gate marked the entrance to Volcano National Park, and is the site of the only comfort facilities (porta-potties) on the hike.
Park Back Entrance
After two miles we reached the "end" of the gravel road. It was blocked at this point due to the current path of the 61G flow from Pu'u O'o to the ocean. At this point, my sister, who had a cataract in one eye that greatly hampered her depth perception, realized that hiking over the lava was going to be difficult, if not impossible. She reluctantly decided to stay put while Yvonne and I headed off in search of lava. Fortunately, it was going to be a cloudy day, so she wouldn't have to worry about the heat.
We turned inland and hiked across the lava field for another two miles. Thanks to many layers of lava over the past 35 years, the hike is far from easy. There's as much up-and-down as there is horizontal progress.
I could see Pulama pali in the near distance with several plumes of smoke indicating lava movement.
Smoke on the Pali
Surprisingly, there were a few areas which had still not been covered with lava.
Eventually, I started to feel some heat coming up from the ground. I asked "Is it just me or is it getting warmer?" Sure enough, as we crested the next hill, there it was: actual hot, glowing, moving lava.
Lava Hike 1, 6:45 am
Yvonne uses her phone to make time-lapse videos of the lava. Since she sets it up so close, the video ends when the phone overheats and shuts down. She has to take it away to cool off before shooting another.
Lava Hike 1, 6:44 am
The terrain in the area was relatively flat, so the lava moved very slowly. Actually, ooze is probably the correct word to describe the motion. There was no threat of being overrun by onrushing lava. It was relatively quiet, but the hot lava made a sort of sizzling sound, like meat cooking on a grill. (Click the photo below to view the video.)
Lava hike 1 video, 6:58 am
Lava Hike 1, 6:49 am
Lava Hike 1, 6:50 am
Lava Hike 1, 6:52 am
Lava Hike 1, 6:53 am
Here I am taking the photo above. How hot was it? Lava like this is over 1000 degrees. My forearms felt like they were next to a hot fire. (I'm sure @gary can relate to that.) This was about as close as I could get for any length of time. On the plus side, after this, taking food out of a hot oven doesn't phase me any more.
Lava Hike 1, 6:56 am
It was relatively quiet out here in the middle of nowhere, but the hot lava made a sort of sizzling sound, like meat cooking on a grill.
Lava Hike 1, 6:57 am
Lava Hike 1, 7:00 am
I was wandering around the perimeter of the flow and took this shot looking down into a crack. Leaving the spot, I noticed loose flakes of lava sticking to my boot soles. The ground was a little warmer than I thought.
Lava Hike 1, 7:08 am
Here's what my boots looked like as a result.
Even though the surface looks cool and solid, danger lurks beneath.
Lava Hike 1, 7:18 am
This video shows an interesting phenomenon: As the lava moved forward, small flakes of lava from the underlying surface are flicked into the air. (Click the photo below to view the video.)
Lava hike 1 video, 7:19 am
Another tour group, from Kalapana cultural tours, found our secret lava spot. They were the only other people we saw on the lava that day.
Lava Hike 1, 7:22 am
(Click the photo below to view the video.)
Lava hike 1 video, 7:23 am
Another sign of the ground's flatness is the width of flow.
Lava Hike 1, 7:27 am
About this time, a light shower passed through. It was interesting to hear the rain drops hiss as they hit the hot lava and instantly evaporated (you can hear it at the 1:00 point in the video). (Click the photo below to view the video.)
Lava hike 1 video, 7:34 am
Lava Hike 1, 7:37 am
The first wave of tourist helicopters showed up, buzzing around like angry hornets. Yvonne said it was time to head back. Once back at the access road, the three of us took a short walk over to where we could see the point where the lava flows into the ocean. We couldn't see any actual lava from here as it was flowing underground. The rope in the foreground is all that prevents people from walking into dangerous areas. The fresh lava is not very stable, and frequently slides into the ocean. A big chunk of land along here disappeared at the end of 2016.
Five hours and eight miles later, we returned to the car. It was hard work, and thanks to my melted boot soles, the hike back was fairly uncomfortable. Yvonne thoughtfully had a cooler of cold juice in her car, and as we chatted she mentioned that on Sunday she would be making an even earlier hike to photograph the lava before dawn. Would I like to come along? You bet! All I need to do is find a new pair of hiking boots.
Here's a map showing the route of our hike. Yvonne sent me a copy of the data from her GPS tracker and I imported it into Google Maps. The numbers on the map are mile markers. The lava was at mile 4, and the little loop at mile 6 was our side trip to the ocean entry.
Lava hike 1 route
Google's satellite photo must be a few years old, because the plume of steam in their photo is nowhere near where it is today. It's an ever-changing landscape.
Due to road construction, there was a massive traffic backup on the road from Kalapana to Kea'au. It was especially bad because there are no alternate routes in the area. Once we finally made it to Kea'au (around 11:30 am), we stopped for lunch. On the way back to the condo, stopped at the Volcano Winery to sample their wares. The rest of the day was spent resting up from the day's activities and making plans for Saturday. We were exhausted!
Yvonne likes to post photos of her hikes on Facebook. Here are the photos from my Friday hike. (You may be required to log on to Facebook to view them.)
You don't need log on to see her compilation of time-lapse videos from that day:
In part 7, we take a break from the bleak volcanic landscape.
To give you something to look at while I'm working on part 7 of my trip report, here are some links for Yvonne Baur:
Yvonne has gone into business for herself, offering lava photography tours in both English and German. Her web site, www.yvonnebaurphotography.com, is the place to go to book a tour, buy her 2018 lava calendar (highly recommended) or prints of her outstanding photos. Pro tip: If you go to Hawai'i and want to do a lava hike, wait until you're there to book your tour. Lava flows change every day, and there's a chance that there won't be a viewing opportunity during your visit. There's no point in spending money to see nothing.
Yvonne is very active on Facebook and Instagram, and frequently posts videos to her Youtube channel.
You can see some of her current and older photos on Smugmug.
Trip report part 7
Time to stop and smell the flowers
First off, a big apology for the big gap between parts 6 and 7. In the two months that have passed, I made two trips to Disney World, lost a hard drive in one PC and the power supply in another. Plus I wasted a lot of time simply trying to identify the subjects of the photos in this report before giving up.
Saturday, August 26 was another day to sleep in since there were no early morning appointments. The first order of business was to find a pair of hiking shoes or boots to replace the pair that were terminally melted by hot ground the day before. The nearest city was Hilo, on the east side of the big island.
On the way into town, we passed the Mauna Loa macadamia nut plant. We would have stopped at the visitor center for a tour and some free samples had we seen the entrance in time. So we added that to the list for the next trip, whenever that may be.
The first stop was at the Prince Kuhio Plaza mall, which bore a striking resemblance to every other mall that I've been in. After a thorough search of all shoe stores in the place, I found nothing acceptable. So we went next door to a discount clothing store (Ross) and within minutes found a pair of hiking sneakers in my size for the bargain price of $18! I guess Pele wanted me to come back for another visit.
One of the must-do places to visit for my sister was the Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden. I pretended that I was taking her there just to make her stop carrying on about it, but in truth I was looking forward to visiting it myself. I guess the work of the Disney World botanical department had given me a desire to see interesting greenery in other places. (Take a look at the web site. It has a description of the garden, a map of the trails and a plant database with an entry for every type of plant that they have.)
The garden is several miles north of Hilo on a road that was once the main highway. After driving over it, I'm glad they built a much nicer road. Sure, it's narrow, has many blind corners and several one-lane bridges, but it's a route worth exploring. Sadly, we didn't have the time to do so as we were focused on visiting the Garden.
Welcome to the Jungle
After parking and purchasing tickets, we went across the road to the garden entrance. The first trail you encounter is a lengthy boardwalk that goes down a hill to the garden area near the ocean. There are several interesting plants along the boardwalk, like this Borneo Red Beehive Ginger.
Borneo Red Beehive Ginger
At the bottom of the boardwalk, there are several trails, each of which highlights a specific type of plant or scenic location. Some examples are the Palm Jungle, Onomea Waterfalls, Orchid Garden, Anthurium Corner and Torch Ginger Trail.
It was a beautiful day with lots of interesting plants. I'll just post a sampling here. If you want to see more, look at my Flickr Hawai'i album where I've posted several more photos.
Pauahi Bishop Hibiscus
Tahitian Double Ginger
The Orchid Garden, as you would guess, contains an astounding variety of orchids. I always thought they were kind of creepy looking, like some sort of alien life form, but seeing so many gave me a new appreciation for their beauty.
They also have a wide variety of Anthuriums, which feature obscene-looking flowers sprouting from pretty leaves.
Eventually we found our way down to the ocean. This area was the site of a village protected by these rocks. Click the photo to read the legend of the twin rocks.
Twin Rocks of Kalahii
Later, the bay became an important port for trade. Eventually the need for the port dropped off, and later the land was purchased by the founders of the Garden.
This flower, the Beach Naupaka, also has a legend associated with it. Click the photo read the further adventures of the volcano goddess.
We spent the better part of the afternoon exploring the garden, so it was dinner time when we left. After consulting our guide book, we decided to dine at the Hilo Burger Joint. It was a hole-in-the-wall bar in a questionable neighborhood, but the food was very good. They had a variety of burgers (and other dishes) that reflect the fusion of western and eastern cultures that is modern Hawai'i.
Full and satisfied, we headed back to the condo. I went to bed early to get a little sleep before rising in the wee hours for my second lava hike.
Stay tuned for part 8! (With luck, it will appear after a reasonably short wait.)
if you had not given me some orchids i would have demanded a refund
There's a bunch more on Flickr.
just came back from the flicker, look at you go, you have some very nice flower shots on there
Trip report part 8
Return to lava
Sunday, August 27 was, in retrospect, one of the best days of a trip full of great days. As you may recall from part 6, guide and photographer Yvonne Baur invited me to join her on a second hike with the goal of taking pre-dawn photos of lava. Since sunrise was at 6 am and we would have to hike up to four miles to reach the flow, I was up at 1 am and on the road just after 2.
Approaching the entrance to Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park, the distant glow of Halema'uma'u crater was too much to resist. I pulled off of the road, set up my tripod and took a few quick shots. The sky was incredibly clear (other than the smoke coming from the crater), so you can see a few stars in this shot.
Pele's Cooking Something Up
I was scheduled to meet Yvonne at the end of the public road in Kalapana in 3:30 am. The photo stop en route only delayed me by five minutes. As before, I transferred my gear to her car and we drove another mile down the road to her special parking spot. We grabbed our backpacks and headed down the access road in complete darkness - we didn't even use flashlights. Again, the sky was very clear and there were no street or house lights visible, so I marvelled at seeing the Milky Way for the first time in years. I would have loved to try to get a photo of it, but we had to press on to be at the lava flow before the sky got too light.
We headed onto the lava field around 4:15 am. There was still a glow of lava dropping over the edge of Pulama pali in the distance, but it didn't seem to be as bright as it has two days earlier. It felt like we hiked for a longer time than on Friday, but that may just have been my imagination. We could see haze in the distance which marked the location of the lava tube where the bulk of the lava flows underground to the sea, but there was no obvious sign of any surface flows.
Finally, we topped one of the many hills and saw what we came for.
Lava Hike 2 5:44 am
We dropped our backpacks in what we thought would be a safe place (we later had to move them a little farther away from the flowing lava), set up our tripods and went to town capturing the ever-changing scene.
Lava Hike 2 5:37 am
Lava Hike 2 5:38 am
Lava Hike 2 5:40 am
Lava Hike 2 5:45 am
Lava Hike 2 5:46 am
Lava Hike 2 5:50 am
It was interesting to see the various patterns on the cooling surface of the lava. In this photo, the dark ripples have swirled around as the left side moves more slowly than the right.
Lava Hike 2 5:47 am
Setting the exposure was tricky. There was glowing lava on top of the old dark lava under a brightening sky with some clouds. And since some of the lava was moving, long exposures could end up blurry in spots. Bracketing was the order of the morning.
The front of the lava flow ended up going in two directions. The main part was following the natural path towards the ocean.
Lava Hike 2 5:54 am
Lava Hike 2 6:04 am
Lava Hike 2 6:15 am
Lava Hike 2 6:49 am
Lava Hike 2 6:54 am
Off to one side was a hollow that somehow had not been completely filled by previous flows, so quite a bit of lava flowed down into that. In the first photo, you can see how the falling stream of lava moves back and forth on the bottom, much like thick cake batter. You can also see strings of "Pele's hair," threads of hardened lava formed by small drips.
Lava Hike 2 6:31 am
Lava Hike 2 6:33:05 am (1 of 3 in sequence)
Lava Hike 2 6:34:33 am (3 of 3 in sequence)
Lava Hike 2 6:47 am
One very unusual phenomenon was this tubular stream of lava that grew slowly along the ground.
Lava Snake 1
It rose up above the ground and appeared to grow a snout.
Lava Snake 2
It finally came to a halt, frozen in place until it's buried by another flow. It reminded me of that water tentacle thing from The Abyss.
Lava Snake 3
The tourist helicopters started buzzing around, signaling us that it was time to leave. I posed for the obligatory tourist photo as the skin on my right elbow started to sizzle from the heat.
Lava Hike 2 7:21 am
In order to save some time, Yvonne suggested that we take a more direct route to the park entrance. It meant a longer hike over lava, but saved about a mile of hiking. That's Yvonne leading me across years of accumulated lava.
Hiking Off Into the Sunrise
Here's the route of the day's 6.5 mile hike, created using GPS data from Yvonne. If you compare it to the map at the end of part 6c, you can see that the lava we found on the second hike could very well be downstream from what we saw on the first.
Lava Hike 2 Route
We returned to my car at 9:30 am, six hours after I parked there. I left my cell phone in the car, so I don't have any videos to post. However, I did take quite a few multi-shot sequences, so if I can ever figure out how to combine them into short videos, I'll post them here.
Here are some of Yvonne's photos from Facebook and her time-lapse video.
It was a wonderful way to spend a morning. We didn't see another soul while we were on the lava.
I thanked Yvonne for the hike, bought a calendar featuring her lava photos, and headed back to the condo. Once there, I took a short nap, did laundry and packed for the next day's travel.
My sister and I strolled down the road to Punalu'u Black Sand Beach. The beach is lava ground down to sand by the constant pounding of waves from the Pacific. Sea turtles are often seen here, but since this was a busy Sunday, they stayed in the water.
Punalu'u Black Sand Beach
In case you're curious, here's the view from the upstairs balcony of our condo. It was fun to just stand there and watch the swaying palm trees and the waves breaking over the rocks in the distance.
View from Sea Mountain condo
That evening, we drove back to Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park. One of the things we booked in advance was dinner in the restaurant at the Volcano House hotel. Our plan was to have a sunset dinner at a window table overlooking Kilauea crater, enjoying the glow of lava in the bottom of Halema'uma'u. Unfortunately, some clouds rolled in, completely blocking the view. I finally asked our server if they would please turn the volcano back on for us. At least the food was good.
After dinner, the clouds thinned and we went to the observation area on the other side of the crater. The view was much better than what we had at dinner.
Looking through my sister's Nikon P900 superzoom with its 24-2000 mm equivalent lens, it was possible to see lava splashing on the side of the crater as gas bubbles burst on the surface of the lava lake that is just out of view.
That pretty much wrapped up our activities on the island of Hawai'i. As always, there are more photos from this day in my Hawai'i album on Flickr.
Part 9 should be along pretty soon because it will be fairly short. Stay tuned!
Trip report part 9
Monday, August 29 was spent changing islands. We left Sea Mountain around 9 am for the two-hour drive over winding roads back to Kona. As we got to Kona I missed the turn onto the bypass, so we ended up going up Ali'i Drive along the ocean and past the site of our 2006 visit, Sea Village Condos, a sister resort to this trip's Sea Mountain lodging. Neither has air conditioning, which is apparently normal in Hawai'i. Braving the slow tourist traffic in downtown Kona, we eventually made it to the airport with time to spare.
The Kona airport is rather unique in that there are no closed buildings - it's a collection of open-air huts. You go to the check-in hut to get your bags tagged, then drop them off at the TSA X-ray machine. The security hut is rather closed-in and hot. Everyone uses the single metal detector, but if you're Pre-Check they give you a yellow card that's like a FastPass to let you through ahead of the rabble. Then you go wait for your flight in the open-air waiting hut. At boarding time, you walk out onto the tarmac and up a ramp onto your plane. (No more stairs up to the plane; too many roller bags, I guess.)
Inter-island flights are very short - so short that your serving of lilikoi juice comes pre-packaged in a small plastic cup so the flight crew doesn't have to waste time filling them.
Once we landed in Honolulu, it seemed like we taxied for a period of time equal to the flight from Kona. Too bad we were taxiing west but our lodging was to the east.
We picked up our rental car and headed for Waikiki. I missed the ramp onto the freeway (I hesitate to call it an Interstate since it stays entirely on the island of Oahu), so we took the Nimitz Highway, a long drive with lots of traffic through the big city.
After fighting the poor layout of one-way streets in Waikiki that made it seem almost impossible to get from where you were to where you wanted to be, we finally got to our destination, the Fairway Villa condos at the corner of Walina Street and Ala Wai Blvd. They didn't have a two-bedroom unit so we ended up in two studios, my sister on the 12th floor and me on the 16th. The rooms were slightly bigger than a Disney moderate room. They had a compact washer and dryer next to the bathroom, a kitchen area, a Murphy bed and a small pull-out couch. There was also a small air conditioner, though not a very good one. Not a great arrangement, but it was good enough for the two nights we would be there.
I stepped out onto the narrow balcony and took a 180-degree panorama of the view. (Click the photo for a larger image.)
North is to the left, Diamond head is just visible behind the buildings left of center and Waikiki Beach is behind the buildings on the right. Lovely, isn't it?
Here's a full image looking to the north. If you look closely at the highrise on the left, you can just barely make out a rainbow in the hills behind it. It was the second rainbow of the trip and not the last.
We tried to decide where to eat and finally just headed toward the beach to see what we could find. We stopped at the International Marketplace, which in the past was a big open-air market. Now it's just another multi-story shopping mall. My sister stopped at one of the fancy shops to buy some special shampoo and asked the folks there for a dining recommendation. One of the places they mentioned was a beer-and-pizza place called Flour & Barley. Since beer and pizza cover all of the necessary food groups, we decided to try it out. It was pretty good.
After dinner we walked through the Royal Hawaiian Hotel, the most famous hotel in Waikiki. It was pretty impressive. We finally reached the beach just after sunset and took in the view as the sky darkened. We also watched a bit of the Royal Hawaiian Luau; the stage is right next to the beach, so we had a good view of the Samoan fire dancers and the twitchy-hipped Tahitian girls.
We decided to call it a night and took the public access route from the beach. This turned out to be an alley with hundreds of surfboards stored against the walls of the buildings on either side. It was an impressive sight to this boy from the Midwestern flatlands.
Stay tuned for part 10: The bowels of Mighty Mo.
Separate names with a comma.