You can convert pictures already taken, as long as they are the same shot at different exposures. Any difference at all in the angle, scene, etc, and you'll get some strange effects and haloing, and have trouble aligning the shots. But I have in fact gone back using an HDR program and blended two photos I've taken years ago successfully (these were shots where the camera was tripod mounted, and I had taken one or two shots first to get the exposure right, then the final shot metered for the highlights. Using HDR, I was able to go back and add lightened shadow areas with good detail and color using those initial metering shots.
The general advice is fairly simple:
- use a tripod or a fixed camera location! Any movement at all, and you'll have to try to realign the pictures, crop them, then perform an HDR blend. And sometimes they can't be realigned without attempting a radial shift...or harmful parallax distortion kills any chance of ever lining up the two shots perfectly.
-Avoid movement in the shot - obviously, hard to blend and stack two, three, or four shots where the subject moves, because it will be in a different spot in each photo. Even a windy day can mess with blending photos - leaves and tree branches tend to move around too much leaving you with haloes and ghost images.
- Shoot for as much exposure range as you want. Your camera probably has a bracketing burst mode with a variance of as much as +-1/2 - that will be enough for a minor HDR blend. But even better is to use manual mode to fix the shutter and ISO, then adjust the aperture one stop at a time, taking the same photo without moving the camera. You may end up with 8, 10, or more shots that you can stack and blend in HDR to get maximum dynamic range.
- When stacking the photos - you can use an HDR blending software that will automatically stack and blend the images for you, or some newer versions of PhotoShop have an HDR merge function built in. When done in software that allows you to manipulate the blending of each layer before saving, you can fine tune the final result to get it the way you want. My noise reduction software, Helicon, also has HDR merge functionality, so I usually use that.
Sometimes, you may want to use it just to get a little more detail out of a shadow against a strongly backlit background...in a realistic way (the human eye has far greater dynamic range than a camera lens, so sometimes to match what we can see, we must find 'cheats' in photography). Other times, you may want to stack a huge range of exposures, as many as 8 or 9 stops between them all, to get a surreal-looking shot, interesting in its own right!