RAW

Uh oh. You really want to open up a can of worms, don't you? Personally, I use RAW, but only very rarely. None of the photos I've ever posted on this site were taken in RAW, except for one (which one? You'll have to guess.). Some people swear by it, and will tell you that all images NOT shot in RAW are wasted (I've actually heard people say that). Here's a decent explanation:

http://luminous-landscape.com/tutorials ... iles.shtml
 
Pros:

More color depth. JPEG is 8 bit, RAW is 12/14 bit.
For each pixel of RAW, you actually have three: 1 each for red, blue, green. (Except for Fuji's Super CCD and Foveon's sensor) JPG only has one pixel. period.
(advantage of that is better response for white balance adjustments, curves adjustments to get data out of the shadows without blowing the highlights)
Basically with RAW you are getting access to the data the camera's sensor has received without the camera doing anything to it* (The current crop of cameras, especially the Nikons, but Canon isn't innocent either, are performing at the minimum some noise reduction without letting you know)

Cons:

Takes up way more data space, so less pics per memory card, and more HDs, DVDs to store the pictures on for later.
Must do post-processing to view online or print* (Actually Canon's new dSLRs now can use the almighty Direct Printâ„¢ technology to print RAW, but it has to be RAW from the same model camera) - which takes an extra step and software to do.
 
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Only if you want to. Since the RAW processor (and the Mac OS or with a Microsoft plugin your explorer will as well) allows you to view it, if you don't like it for whatever reason you can skip it/delete it...

It will depend on your workflow.

With Bibble, there is a specific work processing screen, that has buttons to move between the files and one of them is delete, but all it does is remove the file from the batch of files you are working on.
 
When I moved to a 5D, I started shooting exclusively in RAW. My reasoning is this: I want to improve my photography skills - not just take snapshots. Thus, every picture I take, I take with the intention that I might actually capture something that I might want to blow up poster sized and put on the wall. RAW gives you unparalleled flexibility over the image, and gives you the truest representation of the image, to process as you will.

Because my intention is to improve my skills, I tend to delete most any picture that I don't find is a keeper (whether for technical or composition reasons). The end result over the last few months have been that I take far fewer pictures, but far more of them are "keepers".

Working in RAW definately slows down the workflow: I have to review and delete a ton of pictures, and if I get an exceptional shot, I tend to do a bit of processing on it (usually just white balance adjustments, or perhaps a little shadow lifting). But overall, I'm much happier with my results and I'm happy using RAW for these reasons.

As far as storage space, I store my photos on a networked media drive (HP Mediashare). It's 500GB, with room for another 500GB drive that can be used as a duplicate in a RAID array, or for an additional 500GB. It's plenty of space for me right now.
 
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Yes, if it's convenient. The entry level models make it hard(er) to get to that file format. And if you aren't sure, and have the memory space, I think most of the models will allow you to shoot RAW+JPG at the same time, so you would have the JPG file if you decide that you don't want to use RAW.
 
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"jcvalenti" said:
My reasoning is this: ...every picture I take, I take with the intention that I might actually capture something that I might want to blow up poster sized and put on the wall.
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I operate under the same assumption as well. Every shot I take may be something that I want to hang on the wall, so I always shoot raw just in case. Yes, it takes up more space, so I get the 9gb dual layer DVD's from Best Buy or Circuit City whenever they are on sale. And, yes it does take slightly longer to process the images, but the number of shots I have been able to save when I get the exposure wrong has made the extra time in processing well worth it.
 
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ok, but you have to understand the "manual" side of the camera dial to be able to do this. When I am shooting with the "automatic" modes on my XT I am not able to shoot in RAW. I have to figure out how to remember what each of the other settings mean on the camera before I am "ready" to go to that side of the dial. I would like the ability to shoot RAW but until I can find a way to remember all of the technical aspects of the "manual" side, I just can't do it. Does anyone have any suggestions for this? Not trying to highjack the thread, it just seemed appropriate.
 
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"PolynesianMedic" said:
ok, but you have to understand the "manual" side of the camera dial to be able to do this. Does anyone have any suggestions for this?
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Its not as hard as it seems to learn the "manual" side of the camera. I have a Nikon, so I'm not familiar with the specific settings on that camera, but the basics are still the same.

Basically you have 3 "manual" modes that you can work with. Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority, and Program Mode. Program Mode is the closest to the automatic modes that you use. I'm still learning when and how to change the white balance and all of that, so I usually leave white balance on Auto and then shoot with one of those three modes.

I rarely use Program Mode anymore because you have the least amount of control over the final product. In Program Mode, the camera picks both the shutter and aperture to make the correct exposure. If you are taking snapshots, this is fine, but you have no control over depth of field or the ability to freeze motion.

Aperture Priority lets you select the aperture that you want to use and then the camera selects the appropriate shutter speed. The aperture is what allows you to control the depth of field (f2.8 has a narrow depth of field and f22 has a very deep depth of field)

Shutter Priority lets you select the shutter speed you want and then the camera selects the aperture for you. This allows you to freeze or blur motion in the photo.

Go out this weekend and give it a try. One of the great things about digital is having the exif data to look at when you get back to your computer. You can try different things, and then see the results along with the settings that you used so you can learn what each of the settings can do to the photo.
 
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"DisneyGeek92" said:
Now I will open the can of worms. When I get a DSLR should I shoot RAW.
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My advice is to shoot JPG with your new DSLR until you get very familiar with all the controls, bells, & whistles. If you've never had (or used) a DSLR before, you have a lot of new things to learn and get used to, and learning how to process RAW files is just one more thing to get confused about. I would recommend that you use your camera for at least a month before you shoot RAW.
 
"Scott" said:
Personally, I use RAW, but only very rarely. None of the photos I've ever posted on this site were taken in RAW, except for one
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Scott, your photos are always so good, you could be THE example for the benefits of jpeg. if it works for you, it will work for me!
 
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"mSummers" said:
One of the great things about digital is having the exif data to look at when you get back to your computer. You can try different things, and then see the results along with the settings that you used so you can learn what each of the settings can do to the photo.
Click to expand...

This is a lot better than the old fashioned way. A lot better.
 
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"DisneyGeek92" said:
What was the old way?
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With film, if you wanted to keep track of what settings you used on particular photos, you had to write them down after each shot. I was in 4-H and entered photos in the county fair. The judges always asked you what shutter and aperture you used, so I had to keep a little notebook in my camera bag to write it all down in after each shot.
 
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i don't even know how to load film into a camera. seriously. you should try to see me load a medium format back. it's comical.
 
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